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Last Page Update
15/09/2006 |
Villa dei
Misteri, the wine from Pompeii
presents Mastroberardino
Where could we start
from, if not from the
vine, in whose regard
Italy's primacy is so
unrivalled as to give
the impression to have
outmatcbed, with this
resource alone, the
richness of any other
Country, even those
producing perfum? After
all, there is no
greatest delight in the
world than the fragrance
of vine abloom.
(Pliny, Naturalis
Historia, XIV, s).
In the lives of
the ancient vesuvian
peoples, wine played an
important role.
 Vine
cultivation was
widespread not only in
the countryside, but
inside the city of
Pompeii itself, in the
gardens and orchards
that beautified its
villas, thus showing how
esteemed vine was by its
inhabitants. Classical
works make ample
reference to Campania
wines, considered as
full-bodied, and to
Pompeii's in particular;
produced from vine grown
on Mount Vesuvius'
extremely fertile
volcanic slopes.
Archaeological
excavations, botanical
studies, and finds of
vine root casts and of
their support stakes
confirmed that vine was
grown within ancient
Pompeii's city walls,
especially in the
quarters located on the
outskirts of the city,
near the Amphitheatre,
today still marked by
the presence of large
green areas, used for
different purposes.
In Campania wines
with new names have
recently improved in
quality, it is not known
whether thanks to
appropriate cultivation
or chance alone...
Pompeian wines,
therefore, achieve the
best quality over a
period of 10 years, and
further ageing does not
improve them. (Pliny,
Naturalis Historia, XIV,
7o)
The project carried out
by the Soprintendenza
Archeologica and Società
Mastroberardino focusing
on reintroducing vine
growing in the ancient
city of Pompeii does not
simply imply
rediscovering, but also
recognising the ancient
cultural roots possessed
and handed down by this
city.
In 1996, the
Soprintendenza
Archeologica of Pompeii
authorised
Mastroberardino to
experiment vine growing
in an area, located
between Via Nocera and
Via di Castricio, Regio
I, anciently used for
these purposes. The
above mentioned firm
agreed to cultivate it
following a negotiated
and defined plan, fully
respecting the area's
original conditions.
In march 1996, after
root casts were
identified during
excavations, showing
plant position at the
time of the 79 A.D.
eruption, the
experimental vineyard
area, some 200 square
metre in surface, was
tilled for growing. The
vines of eight different
cultivars, chosen based
on bibliographic and
iconographic studies
carried out on frescos
portraying bunches of
grapes, were planted in
rows:
- Vitis Aminea Gemina
(Greco)
- Vitis Oleagina (Sciascinoso
o Olivella )
- Vitis Apiana (Fiano)
- Cauda Vulpium (Coda di
Volpe)
- Vitis Hellenica (Aglianico)
- Vitis Alopecis (Caprettona)
- Columbina Purpurea (Piedirosso)
- Falanghina
As recalled by Pliny,
these were the vines
producing the grapes
used by the romans to
make famous white and
red wines. Pliny
himself stressed that
some of them, such as
Greco and Aglianico,
were imported from
Greece in pre-roman
times.
If I am not mistaken,
from these examples it
may be inferred that it
is the region and type
of soil that have an
influence, and not
grapes, and that it is
no use making a list of
all the species, because
the same vine will yield
different results
depending on where it
grows.
(Pliny, Naturalis
Historia, XIV,7 o).
During
experimentation it was
discovered that the
Aglianico vine was
unsuitable to the
pedologic and
micro-climatic features
of the area; indeed, it
produced a thick bunch,
with very large berries,
which would not ripen
owing to the fact that
berries would break
during ripening.
In september 1999,
three years after
planting, the vines
reached maturity and the
first grape harvesting
took place: the
harvest was entirely
used for experimental
wine-making.
Thanks to the positive
results achieved, it was
decided to expand
cultivation, though
limiting it to the two
red-berry local
varieties, namely
Piedirosso and
Sciascinoso.
Following archaeological
finds and botanic
surveys, Regio I and
Regio II areas, which in
ancient times were,
grown with vines, were
identified, and planted
with 85% Piedirosso, and
15% Sciascinoso (or
Olivella) vines.
Hence, the vineyards
adjoining the following
were devoted to
cultivation: Casa della
Nave Europa, Osteria del
Gladiatore, with a
processing cella,
featuring a winepress,
and buried "dolii"
(jars) for collecting
must, and an underground
cellar which could be
accessed from the
vineyard through a
staircase; Foro Boario,
with a processing cella
featuring a winepress,
and buried jars for
collecting must; Casa
del Triclinio Estivo.
It was in 2001 that the
first wine coming from
ancient Pompeii
vineyards was produced,
following the first
significant harvesting,
vinification and ageing
in wooden casks.
The wine going under
the name of VILLA DEI
MISTERI (Villa of the
Mysteries).
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